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Breaking Waves Practice

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Last updated almost 3 years ago
2 questions
5
3
Question 1
1.

Match the term to the correct description.

Draggable itemarrow_right_altCorresponding Item
Plunging breaker
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Wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses
Whitecaps
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Question 2
2.

Look at the images and videos below and sort them by type. (Videos are long, but you only need to watch the first 10-20 seconds of each to determine the wave type)

  • First 15 seconds!
A wave crest that is broken
Breaker
Gentle sloping beach; Waves tumble down and slide onto beach
Spilling breaker
Moderately steep beach; Waves curl; Great surfing waves
Surging breaker
Very steep beach; Waves do not slow down; Can be very violent
First 5 seconds!
First 5 seconds!
First 10 seconds!
First 5 seconds!
First 15 seconds!
Spilling Breaker
Plunging breaker
Surging Breaker