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Breaking Waves Practice

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Last updated over 2 years ago
2 questions
5
3
Question 1
1.

Match the term to the correct description.

Draggable itemarrow_right_altCorresponding Item
Plunging breaker
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Wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses
Whitecaps
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A wave crest that is broken
Spilling breaker
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Gentle sloping beach; Waves tumble down and slide onto beach
Surging breaker
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Moderately steep beach; Waves curl; Great surfing waves
Breaker
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Very steep beach; Waves do not slow down; Can be very violent
Question 2
2.

Look at the images and videos below and sort them by type. (Videos are long, but you only need to watch the first 10-20 seconds of each to determine the wave type)

  • First 5 seconds!
  • First 15 seconds!
  • First 5 seconds!
  • First 15 seconds!
  • First 5 seconds!
  • First 10 seconds!
  • Spilling Breaker
  • Plunging breaker
  • Surging Breaker